Learn how to force amaryllis bulbs indoors for winter blooms.
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This flower is named after a shepherdess who had unrequited love for a gardener. Each day she would walk to his door to impress him by piercing her own heart with a golden arrow. The blood that would drop to the ground would turn into scarlet flowers that would line his path. I don’t know if that shepherdess ever got her gardener, but I do know her name was amaryllis.
Amaryllis bulbs are hardy in southern climes, but we mostly force them indoors to bloom in winter. Flowers are double or single with colors such as deep scarlet, white, salmon, pink, and striped. Newer dwarf versions have more flowers with shorter flower stalks so they’re less likely to flop over.
Pot up amaryllis now into a container a little larger than the bulb. Place them in a brightly lit warm room and water. In a few months your amaryllis should be in full flower. Most bulbs produce two flower stalks, and some even three. Remove spent flowers as they fade and cut back the flower stalk to the bulb when all the flowers have passed. Keep the bulb with its leaves growing and in early summer, move the pot outdoors to a morning sun location. Fertilize monthly and keep well watered. In early fall, cut back the leaves to within 2 inches of the bulb, stop watering and place the bulb in a dark, 40 to 50 F room to go dormant for 6 weeks. Then bring it into the light and warmth again to bloom once more in winter.
From the Vermont Garden Journal